Quilting Terms You Should Know Before You Start

Q: What are the advantages of joining a Block of the Month program, and how can it help you grow as a quilter?

Joining a Block of the Month (BOM) program is an excellent way to dive into quilting while learning at a comfortable pace. Each month, you'll focus on crafting a single quilt block, letting you explore new techniques step by step without feeling overwhelmed. This makes it a great fit for both beginners who are just starting out and seasoned quilters looking to try something new. BOM programs also help you stay consistent and inspired. Tackling smaller, monthly projects keeps the process manageable, and by the end, you'll have a stunning quilt to show for your efforts. Even better, these programs often connect you with a community of like-minded quilters, giving you the chance to share ideas, stay motivated, and celebrate your progress together!

December 22, 2025

Quilting can seem overwhelming with its unique terminology, but understanding essential terms like HST, WOF, and BOM can simplify the process. This guide explains key quilting concepts, from fabric cuts to finishing techniques, so you can start your quilting journey with confidence.

Fabric Basics
Grain direction matters when cutting fabric. The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage and is the most stable, while the bias (at a 45° angle) stretches the most. Always trim the selvage, the tightly woven edge, before cutting. Terms like WOF (Width of Fabric) help define usable fabric width, typically 40–42 inches after selvage removal. Pre-cut options like fat quarters (18" x 21") offer flexibility for various designs.

Piecing and Blocks
Piecing involves sewing fabric pieces together to form quilt blocks. Accuracy is key, especially with a ¼" seam allowance, which ensures blocks align properly. Common block components include HSTs (Half-Square Triangles), made by sewing two triangles together, and strip piecing, which simplifies sewing by cutting from pre-sewn strips. Techniques like chain piecing save time and maintain consistency.

Quilt Assembly
A quilt sandwich consists of three layers: the quilt top, batting, and backing. Proper basting (using safety pins, spray adhesive, or hand stitching) prevents shifting during quilting. Choose batting based on your quilt’s purpose - cotton for a classic look, polyester for puffiness, or wool for warmth. Quilting stitches secure these layers while adding texture, and finishing with binding gives the quilt clean edges.

Planning and Project Management
Stay organized by understanding project statuses like BOM (Block of the Month), where you create one block monthly, or UFOs (Unfinished Objects), which are paused projects. Standard quilt sizes (e.g., throw: 50" x 60") help with planning fabric needs. Tools like rotary cutters, rulers, and sewing machines with a ¼" presser foot are essential for precision.

Start Quilting Today
Ready to turn these terms into skills? Mrs. Quilty’s beginner-friendly kits and subscription boxes include everything you need - fabric, patterns, and step-by-step instructions. Visit Mrs. Quilty to explore projects designed to make quilting approachable and fun.

Fabric and Cutting Terms

Getting familiar with how fabric is structured and measured can make quilting instructions much easier to follow. Knowing about grain and selvage is key to cutting your fabric accurately.

Grain refers to the direction of the woven threads in quilting cotton. The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage and has the least stretch, which makes it perfect for quilt borders or areas that need stability. The crosswise grain, running perpendicular to the selvage, has a bit more flexibility, which can come in handy for piecing. The bias, at a 45° angle to the selvage, is the stretchiest part of the fabric. This stretchiness makes it great for binding curved edges, but it needs careful handling to avoid distortion. A quick way to test the fabric's tension is to gently tug it: the lengthwise grain barely moves, the crosswise grain has a slight give, and the bias stretches noticeably.

The selvage (or selvedge) is the tightly woven edge of the fabric. Since it’s denser and may shrink differently than the rest of the material, quilters trim it off before cutting.

WOF (Width of Fabric) is a term you’ll often see in quilting patterns. It refers to the usable width of the fabric from one selvage to the other, excluding the selvage itself. After trimming, the usable WOF is usually about 42 inches. For example, if a pattern says to "cut 2½-inch strips WOF", it means cutting a strip the full usable width of the fabric and then dividing it into smaller pieces. Mrs. Quilty's patterns always specify "Based on 42-inch usable WOF", so you know exactly what to expect when cutting.

Once you understand fabric width and grain, cutting techniques like fat quarters become straightforward. A fat quarter is a piece of fabric measuring about 18 inches by 21 inches. It’s made by cutting a half-yard of fabric along the WOF and then halving it vertically. Fat quarters are popular because they allow for more layout options when cutting larger shapes like squares, rectangles, or triangles without needing a lot of fabric.

A fat eighth, measuring roughly 9 inches by 21 inches, is created by cutting a fat quarter in half. These smaller pieces are perfect for scrappy blocks, small appliqué shapes, or accents in your quilt.

Here’s a practical example: a navy fat quarter can be cut into four 2½-inch WOF strips. Each strip can then be cut into 2½-inch squares, giving you sixteen pieces. For a fat eighth, you might cut eight 2-inch by 3½-inch rectangles, as specified in some patterns.

Beginners often make a few common mistakes, such as counting the selvage as usable fabric, which can leave pieces too small or prone to shrinking unevenly. Cutting fabric on the bias unintentionally can also lead to stretchy, distorted patches. Another error is assuming all WOFs are the same size, which can throw off measurements. Mrs. Quilty's kits are designed to help avoid these pitfalls, with clear, step-by-step instructions that emphasize grain, selvage, and accurate measurements.

A helpful tip: some quilters prefer to prewash all their fabric to deal with shrinkage upfront, while others skip prewashing entirely to keep the fabric’s crisp finish. Either approach works, as long as you’re consistent within a single project. If your fabric has directional prints, like stripes or words, take a moment to decide how you want them to appear on the finished quilt and align your cuts accordingly.

With these fabric basics in mind, you’re ready to dive into piecing and block terms to further develop your quilting skills.

Piecing and Block Terms

Piecing is the process of joining fabric pieces to create your quilt design. Accuracy is key, and maintaining a ¼" seam allowance ensures your quilt blocks meet the correct dimensions.

Using a ¼" seam allowance keeps blocks consistent. Even small deviations can lead to misaligned seams. Many quilters opt for a scant ¼" seam, which is slightly less than ¼", to account for fabric taken up during pressing. For precision, a ¼" presser foot can help guide the fabric edge, or you can mark a ¼" line on your machine's throat plate using tape. Always test your seam allowance on scrap fabric before starting your project. Mrs. Quilty’s patterns often include a helpful "Seam Test" reminder to ensure your seams are accurate before cutting into all your fabric.

When piecing, arrange fabric pieces RST (Right Sides Together) for hidden seams, or WST (Wrong Sides Together) if the pattern specifies it for special techniques. Mrs. Quilty's patterns include visual aids to clarify these terms.

For pressing seams, use a lift-and-lower motion with your iron to avoid stretching the fabric. Press seams toward the darker fabric for a cleaner look, unless the pattern specifies otherwise. Occasionally, seams need to be pressed open to reduce bulk. When joining two blocks, pressing seams in opposite directions creates nesting seams, which fit together like puzzle pieces, making it easier to align intersections.

Once you’ve mastered seam accuracy and pressing techniques, you can tackle classic quilt units like HSTs and QSTs.

Half-Square Triangles (HSTs)

HSTs are created by sewing two right-angle triangles along their diagonal edge. They’re a great way to practice precision sewing. A popular method starts with two squares placed RST. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the lighter fabric, sew ¼" on both sides of the line, and then cut along the drawn line to produce two HST units. After sewing, trim them to the specified size. Many of Mrs. Quilty’s beginner projects include pinwheel blocks made with four HSTs, walking you through each step - marking, sewing, cutting, pressing, and trimming - until you feel confident with the process.

Quarter-Square Triangles (QSTs)

QSTs are made by combining four triangles, often by sewing two HSTs together to create a crisp center. They’re frequently used in designs like star blocks and compass patterns, giving beginners a chance to practice matching seam intersections and working with bias edges. Pressing the diagonal seams in opposite directions helps achieve a smooth, flat center.

Strip Piecing

Strip piecing simplifies the process by sewing long fabric strips together before cutting them into smaller, uniform pieces. Instead of cutting and sewing individual squares, you sew one strip set and then slice it into multiple identical pieces. For example, a rail fence block might involve sewing three 2½" strips together RST along their long edges, pressing the seams, and then cutting the strip set into 6½" segments.

Chain Piecing

Chain piecing is a time-saving technique that reduces thread waste and ensures consistent measurements. To chain piece, sew one pair of fabric pieces, then feed the next pair under the needle without cutting the thread in between. This creates a continuous chain of units. Once all pairs are sewn, you simply snip the threads connecting them and press.

These techniques lay the groundwork for assembling your quilt with ease. Mrs. Quilty’s patterns include step-by-step instructions, reminders for seam accuracy, and detailed diagrams with arrows to show pressing directions and seam placement. With these skills in hand, you’re ready to move on to quilt assembly and finishing, where all your blocks come together to form a beautiful quilt top.

Quilt Assembly and Finishing Terms

Once you've pieced and pressed your quilt top, it's time to bring your project together by assembling its three layers. Mrs. Quilty's step-by-step instructions and demonstrations make this process simple and approachable. This stage is all about combining the layers, stitching them securely, and finishing the edges for a polished result. Knowing the terms used in this process will help you follow patterns easily and make informed decisions about your quilt's final look and feel.

Understanding the Three Layers

A finished quilt consists of three layers that work together to provide warmth, structure, and visual appeal:

Quilt Top: The decorative layer on top. This is the part you've carefully pieced together with blocks, half-square triangles (HSTs), and strip sets, showcasing your quilt's unique design and color palette.
Batting: The middle layer that adds warmth and loft (thickness). Batting comes in various materials, each with its own qualities:
- Cotton: Breathable and flat, perfect for a classic look.
- Polyester: Lightweight with more puff, offering texture and resistance to shrinkage.
- Wool: Warm and resilient, providing insulation even in thinner forms.
- Blends: Like 80/20 cotton-polyester, balancing stability and softness.
- Bamboo: Chosen by some for its eco-friendly properties and soft drape.
Backing: The bottom layer, which completes the underside of the quilt. Often a single large piece of fabric, it can also be pieced from panels. Backing should extend 2–4 inches beyond the quilt top on all sides to allow for shifting during quilting.

These three layers are combined to form what quilters call a "quilt sandwich."

Creating the Quilt Sandwich

The quilt sandwich is the layered combination of backing, batting, and quilt top, prepared for quilting. Proper assembly of the quilt sandwich is crucial to avoid puckering, wrinkles, or shifting layers during the quilting process.

Lay the backing fabric wrong side up on a flat surface, smoothing out any wrinkles.
Center the batting on top of the backing, smoothing it outward from the center.
Place the quilt top right side up on the batting, ensuring the layers are smooth and aligned, with the backing and batting extending beyond the quilt top.

To hold these layers together temporarily, you'll need to baste them. Common basting methods include:

Safety Pins: Reliable and reusable.
Hand Basting: Long stitches that leave no marks.
Spray Adhesive: Quick and convenient for smaller projects.

Basting every 3–4 inches ensures the layers stay in place during quilting.

Quilting: Stitching the Layers Together

Quilting refers to the process of stitching through all three layers. This is different from piecing, which only involves sewing fabric pieces to create the quilt top. Quilting serves both a functional purpose - holding the layers together - and a decorative one, adding texture and interest to your finished quilt.

Straight-Line Quilting: This involves sewing evenly spaced, straight lines across the quilt. Using a walking foot helps feed all three layers evenly, preventing puckering. It's a beginner-friendly technique and works well with modern quilt designs. Examples include grids, vertical lines, or stitching along the seams.
Stitch-in-the-Ditch: A type of straight-line quilting where stitches are sewn directly into the seam lines. This method keeps the quilting nearly invisible, allowing the fabric and block design to stand out.
Free-Motion Quilting (FMQ): This technique gives you the freedom to create custom designs like loops, swirls, or flowers. It requires a free-motion or darning foot and lowering your machine's feed dogs. While FMQ takes practice, it offers endless design possibilities. Beginners often start with simple patterns like stippling before moving to more intricate designs.

The type of batting you choose can influence your quilting. Batting packages specify the maximum quilting distance (e.g., "quilt up to 8 inches apart"). Quilting more densely than recommended is fine, but spacing stitches too far apart can lead to shifting or clumping, especially after washing. For example:

Low-loft cotton batting typically requires quilting every 2–4 inches.
Some polyester battings allow up to 8–10 inches between quilting lines.

The density of your quilting also affects how your quilt feels and drapes. Denser quilting with stiffer fibers results in a crisper quilt, ideal for wall hangings. Softer batting and moderate quilting create a cozy quilt perfect for beds or couches.

Once your quilting is complete, it's time to finish the edges with binding.

Binding: Finishing the Edges

Binding is the final step that covers the raw edges of your quilt sandwich, giving it a clean and finished appearance. It transforms your quilt into a complete piece, ready for use or display.

Cutting Binding Strips: Cut strips 2¼–2½ inches wide, either on the straight grain (parallel to the selvage) for straight edges or on the bias (at a 45-degree angle) for curved edges.
Joining Strips: Sew the strips together with diagonal seams to create one long, continuous strip. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.
Attaching Binding: Start in the middle of one side of the quilt, not at a corner. Align the raw edges of the binding with the quilt top's raw edge and sew with a ¼" seam allowance. Stop ¼" before each corner to create mitered corners - those crisp, angled folds that give your quilt a professional look.
Finishing the Binding: Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt, covering the raw edges. You can:
- Hand-stitch it to the back for an invisible finish.
- Machine-stitch it from the front for a faster option.

Mrs. Quilty's patterns include detailed binding instructions with diagrams to guide you through creating mitered corners and finishing your quilt neatly. These resources ensure your final product looks polished and professional.

With the binding complete, your quilt is ready to be admired, gifted, or enjoyed. By understanding these terms and techniques, you'll feel confident tackling any pattern and making choices that suit your project and style.

Project Planning Terms

Before diving into cutting fabric or selecting a pattern, it’s important to get familiar with some key planning terms. These terms help you align your project with your schedule, skill level, and available space. They’re also the foundation for choosing patterns, calculating fabric needs, and organizing your crafting time - just like Mrs. Quilty’s kits, which are thoughtfully designed to guide you from start to finish with confidence.

Understanding Project Status: BOM, WIP, and UFO

Quilters often use a few handy acronyms to describe the status of their projects. Knowing these will help you stay organized and manage your time effectively.

BOM (Block of the Month): This method breaks a quilt into smaller, manageable blocks. For example, Mrs. Quilty’s monthly subscription box provides 12 coordinated fat quarters, step-by-step instructions, and a surprise gift, enabling you to complete one block each month. This approach is perfect for beginners who might feel overwhelmed by tackling an entire quilt at once. Set aside 2–3 hours monthly for each block, and store your pieces in labeled bags for easy organization. By year’s end, you’ll have a completed sampler quilt and a whole year of new skills under your belt.
WIP (Work in Progress): This refers to any project you’re actively working on. Keeping track of your WIPs helps you prioritize deadlines and avoid juggling too many projects at once.
UFO (Unfinished Object): These are projects you’ve started but set aside. Make a list of your UFOs, noting what’s left to do, like “Needs backing and quilting.” When planning your next project, consider finishing one or two UFOs before starting a new BOM. Store UFOs in clear bins with notes on what’s done and what’s left, so you can quickly assess the effort needed to complete them.

Once you’ve organized your projects, you’ll be ready to choose your quilt size and gather the necessary materials.

U.S. Quilt Size Labels

Selecting the right quilt size is one of the first decisions you’ll make. U.S. patterns and fabric calculators use standard size labels to guide you in matching your project to its intended use, whether it’s for a bed or a gift. Here are the most common quilt size benchmarks:

Baby: 36″ × 52″ or 40″ × 50″
Crib: 36″ × 52″
Throw / Lap: 50″ × 60″
Twin: 70″ × 90″
Full / Double: 80″ × 90″
Queen: 90″ × 100″
King: 100″ × 110″

These measurements are general guidelines, though exact sizes may vary by designer or how much overhang you prefer on the mattress. Mrs. Quilty’s patterns clearly specify finished sizes, such as “finished size: throw, approx. 52″ × 62″,” so you can confidently pick a project that suits your needs. Knowing the size upfront also helps you calculate the required fabric, backing, and batting more accurately.

With your size choice in mind, it’s time to think about techniques that will shape your planning.

Key Techniques That Affect Planning

Different quilting techniques can influence how much time, skill, and materials your project will require. Understanding these methods beforehand helps you plan more effectively.

Appliqué: This involves sewing fabric shapes onto a background to create decorative designs like flowers or letters. Appliqué projects often require extra fabric for the shapes and may call for stabilizers or fusible web. Because of the precision needed for turning edges or stitching curves, appliqué is often considered suitable for “confident beginners” or “intermediate” quilters. It also adds time to your project, so plan for several extra hours to trace, cut, and sew the shapes. Mrs. Quilty’s appliqué patterns are clearly labeled, ensuring you have the right tools - like small scissors, appliqué needles, or fusible products - before you start. For a more relaxed pace, try working on appliqué in short sessions, like during TV time.
Chain Piecing: This technique speeds up construction by sewing repeated units in one efficient session. For instance, when a Mrs. Quilty pattern suggests chain piecing, you’ll cut all your units first, then sew similar seams in a batch. This method can save hours and reduce thread waste, making it ideal for “fast finish” or “weekend project” patterns.
QAYG (Quilt As You Go): In this method, each block is quilted individually with its own batting and backing before being joined together. It’s particularly useful for small workspaces since it avoids handling large, bulky fabric pieces. Instead of buying full-quilt yardage for backing and batting, you’ll prepare smaller pieces for each block. While this technique front-loads the quilting process - taking about 30–45 minutes per block - it simplifies the final assembly, which can be completed in just a few hours. Mrs. Quilty often tags QAYG patterns as beginner-friendly and perfect for limited spaces.

How Mrs. Quilty's Patterns Support Your Planning

Mrs. Quilty’s patterns are thoughtfully crafted to make planning straightforward and stress-free. They’re labeled with clear measurements, skill levels, and time estimates, allowing you to choose projects that match your abilities and schedule.

Skill Levels: Patterns are categorized as Beginner, Confident Beginner, Intermediate, or Advanced, with each level tied to specific techniques. For example, beginner patterns focus on straight seams and simple blocks, while confident beginner patterns might include half-square triangles (HSTs) or basic appliqué. As Diane M. shared in her review:

Being a beginner, Mrs. Quilty has been a game-changer. The easy projects and clear instructions helped me learn so fast!

Time Estimates: Patterns include realistic time ranges, like “Weekend project (8–10 hours)” or “Multi-week project (20+ hours),” broken down into cutting, piecing, quilting, and binding phases. They also note time-saving options, such as chain piecing or using pre-cut fabric bundles. For instance, a throw quilt that might take 20 hours with traditional piecing could be completed in 12–15 hours using chain piecing.
Fabric Requirements: All patterns list fabric needs in U.S. yards and inches, aligning with the imperial measurements most commonly used by quilters in the U.S.

1. BOM (Block of the Month)

BOM (Block of the Month) is a quilting program that breaks down the process of making a quilt into manageable monthly steps. Instead of diving into an entire quilt all at once - something that can feel intimidating, especially for beginners - you’ll focus on creating one block each month. Over the course of 6, 9, or 12 months, you’ll have all the blocks you need to assemble a complete quilt top, all while building your quilting skills along the way.

Each month, you’ll receive a specific block pattern complete with cutting instructions and piecing steps. For example, the first month might start with simple squares, the second might introduce HSTs (Half Square Triangles), and later months could add techniques like appliqué or flying geese. This gradual progression makes learning quilting techniques feel natural - you’ll learn by doing, not just by reading about terms in a glossary. Along the way, you’ll practice essential skills like cutting fabric (using the WOF, or Width of Fabric) and sewing accurate seam allowances, all of which set the foundation for more advanced techniques.

Mrs. Quilty's monthly subscription box is built around this BOM concept. Each box includes 12 coordinated fat quarters of 100% cotton fabric, a quilting magazine with templates and step-by-step instructions, and even a surprise gift. By working through these kits, you’ll pick up key quilting vocabulary and skills while making real progress. For example, you’ll learn terms like quarter-inch seam allowance and fat quarter as you cut, sew, and organize your fabrics - reinforcing these concepts through hands-on practice.

BOM Program Formats and Logistics

BOM programs come in a variety of formats to suit different preferences. Some quilt shops host in-person programs with monthly meetups, while subscription boxes deliver materials straight to your door. Virtual BOMs often offer downloadable PDFs, video tutorials, and online support groups for added flexibility.

Mrs. Quilty's patterns include clear size specifications, such as "finished size: throw, approx. 52″ × 62″", so you’ll know exactly what to expect and can plan for your fabric, backing, and batting needs. Subscription options are flexible, with pre-paid plans offering discounts: save 3% on a 3-month plan, 6% on a 6-month plan, and 9% on a 12-month plan - all with free shipping. For month-to-month subscriptions, standard shipping is $4.97 per box.

Choosing the Right BOM for Your Skill Level

When selecting a BOM, look for programs labeled "beginner" or "confident beginner" if you’re just starting out. These programs typically focus on simpler shapes like squares, rectangles, and basic triangles, avoiding more advanced techniques like curves or paper piecing. Mrs. Quilty’s patterns are clearly categorized by skill level, making it easy to pick projects that match your experience.

Time commitment is another consideration. Most blocks take about 2–3 hours to complete, so think about whether you can set aside that time each month. Scheduling a recurring sewing session - like the first Saturday of each month - can help you stay on track and avoid falling behind. If you do miss a month, don’t stress. Treat each block as a standalone mini-project and tackle them at your own pace.

Getting Ready to Start Your BOM

Before you begin, gather some basic tools:

A rotary cutter and cutting mat
A quilting ruler marked in inches
A sewing machine (preferably with a ¼″ foot)
Pins or clips
A seam ripper
An iron and pressing surface

Decide whether to use the recommended fabric bundle or pull from your own stash. If you’re using your stash, have a little extra yardage on hand to account for cutting mistakes. Prewash your fabric if you prefer, and keep each month’s pieces organized in labeled bags. As Liana K. shared in her review:

"Every kit is like a little push towards my goals. I started not knowing much, and now feel so accomplished after each completed quilt!"

Learning Through Monthly Repetition

The monthly format of a BOM helps reinforce quilting techniques and vocabulary through repeated practice. Each time you cut strips WOF or sew with a scant ¼″ seam allowance, you’re strengthening both your understanding of the terms and your physical skills. Mrs. Quilty’s patterns support this learning process with consistent layouts and checklists, starting with simple blocks and gradually increasing in complexity. By the end of the program, you’ll have completed a full sampler quilt and gained a year’s worth of quilting experience.

Overcoming Common BOM Challenges

It’s normal to worry about falling behind or making mistakes, but BOMs are designed to be flexible. If you miss a month, just pick up where you left off. There’s no rush - your quilt will come together on your own timeline.

One common challenge is inconsistent block sizes, often caused by inaccurate seam allowances. Before starting a new block, test your ¼″ seam on scrap fabric and adjust as needed. Many machines sew slightly wider than a true ¼″, so a "scant" ¼″ seam - just a tiny bit narrower - can help improve accuracy.

Another potential hurdle is fabric choice. If you’re unsure about your selections, try laying out your fabrics together or making a test block before committing. And don’t be too hard on yourself if a block doesn’t turn out perfectly - quilts with a few quirky blocks often have the most character and tell the best stories.

What You'll Do With Your Finished BOM Quilt

Once completed, your BOM quilt can become a heartfelt gift for a birthday, graduation, or baby shower. It could also serve as a cozy throw or bed quilt, showcasing your year-long journey in quilting. Some quilters donate their BOM quilts to charity, adding extra meaning to the project. Others keep their first BOM as a personal milestone - a tangible reminder of how much they’ve learned and a source of confidence for future quilting endeavors.

2. HST (Half Square Triangle)

The HST (Half Square Triangle) is a cornerstone of quilting. It’s a square unit made by sewing two right-angled triangles together along their diagonal edges. Once you’ve learned how to make HSTs, countless quilt designs become achievable. In fact, mastering this technique is essential for many of Mrs. Quilty's BOM projects.

To create an HST, start by cutting a fabric square diagonally. Sew a ¼″ seam on both sides of the diagonal cut, then trim it to the desired size. For instance, a 5″ square will yield a 4½″ HST after trimming.

Why HSTs Are Everywhere

HSTs are loved by quilters because they’re simple to make and incredibly versatile. They can be arranged into designs like pinwheels, stars, chevrons, and sawtooth borders. Classic quilt blocks - such as the Sawtooth Star, Pinwheel, Ohio Star, Churn Dash, and Jacob's Ladder - are often just combinations of HSTs and plain squares. Even intricate-looking traditional quilts often break down into these basic units, making them approachable for beginners.

Modern quilting also embraces HSTs, often using oversized pieces (6″ to 12″) and bold, solid fabrics to create striking, minimalist designs. Whether your style leans traditional or contemporary, HSTs are an essential tool in any quilter’s repertoire.

How to Make HSTs: The Two-at-a-Time Method

This method is a quick way to create matching HST pairs:

Cut two fabric squares ⅞″ larger than your desired finished size.
Place them right sides together.
Draw a diagonal line on the back of the lighter fabric using a Heat Erasable Fabric Marker ($12.99 for an 8-pack).
Sew a ¼″ seam on both sides of the line, then cut along the marked diagonal.

This technique allows you to produce pairs of HSTs efficiently and with matching precision.

Managing Bias Edges

When you cut a square diagonally, the long edge of each triangle lies on the bias, which has more stretch than the straight grain. To keep your HSTs from distorting:

Handle the bias edges carefully.
Press your seams by lifting and setting the iron down instead of dragging it.
Consider using starch or pressing spray before cutting to stabilize the fabric.

Mrs. Quilty’s video tutorials provide step-by-step demonstrations of how to handle bias edges properly. As Brenda M. puts it:

"It's like having a personal quilting coach - right on screen!"

Trimming for Precision

After sewing and pressing, use a Non Slip Acrylic Quilting Ruler Set ($44.99) with a 45° line to trim your HSTs to the exact size. Align the 45° mark with your diagonal seam, trim off the "dog ears", and square up the unit. Some quilters prefer sewing with a slightly wider seam allowance (like ⅜″) and then trimming for perfect accuracy.

For projects with many HSTs, chain-piecing multiple pairs at once can save time. You can also cut fabric squares from strips using strip-piecing techniques. To ensure clean results, mark the diagonal line on the back of the lighter square with a fabric pen or chalk.

To boost accuracy, keep tools like a dedicated HST trimming ruler and a sharp rotary cutter handy. Before starting, test your ¼″ seam on scrap fabric - some machines sew slightly wider than a true ¼″, so using a "scant" ¼″ seam can improve your results.

Avoiding Common Mistakes

Beginners often face challenges with seam allowances, stretching bias edges, and inconsistent sizing. To sidestep these issues:

Use a ¼″ presser foot or a marked guide on your sewing machine.
Handle bias edges gently to prevent stretching.
Always trim HSTs to their exact unfinished size.

Pressing instead of ironing (lifting rather than dragging the iron) also helps maintain the shape. For tight spaces, a Mini Iron ($29.99) can make precise pressing easier.

HSTs in Mrs. Quilty’s Projects

Mrs. Quilty’s subscription boxes make learning HSTs approachable. You might encounter them in Month 2 of a BOM program, after mastering basic square cutting and sewing. A pinwheel block, for example, introduces HSTs step by step - covering cutting, sewing, pressing, and trimming. Tips like "chain-piece your HSTs to save time" or "press toward the darker fabric for a clean look" are often included in the patterns.

By revisiting HSTs in different layouts - paired with plain squares, arranged into stars, or used in chevron patterns - you’ll get plenty of practice. This hands-on approach makes the learning process feel natural and fun. Before long, you’ll start noticing HSTs in nearly every quilt pattern.

Practice Projects to Build Confidence

To solidify your skills, try a small project like an 18″ × 18″ pillow cover or a baby quilt made entirely from 4″ finished HSTs. Lay your HSTs out on a flat surface or design wall before sewing them together. Rotate and arrange them into different patterns - stars, chevrons, or pinwheels - to explore the design possibilities.

Once you’ve practiced these techniques, you’ll feel more confident tackling larger quilts. HSTs are a fundamental skill that will serve you well throughout your quilting journey.

3. WOF (Width of Fabric)

Getting a handle on WOF (Width of Fabric) is a must for accurate cutting and efficient use of fabric. Simply put, WOF refers to the distance from one selvage edge to the other, running perpendicular to the fabric's length. For standard quilting cotton, this measurement typically falls between 42–44 inches, though after trimming the selvages, the usable width is closer to 40–42 inches.

Understanding WOF is crucial because most quilt patterns use it as the basis for cutting instructions. For instance, if a pattern says, "cut 4 strips 2½″ x WOF", it means you’ll cut strips 2½ inches tall that span the full width of the fabric from selvage to selvage. This system makes patterns easier to follow and helps you figure out how many pieces you can cut from a single strip.

How to Measure WOF

To measure WOF accurately, lay your fabric flat on a cutting mat, aligning the selvages. The distance between the two selvages is your WOF. Since selvages can cause puckering, they’re usually trimmed off - generally about ½ to 1 inch on each side. After trimming, the usable width is typically around 40 inches.

When cutting WOF strips, fold the fabric in half with the selvages aligned. Trim off the selvages to create a clean edge before making your cuts. This ensures precise measurements and cleaner results.

Why WOF Matters in Patterns

Quilt patterns often use WOF as a shorthand to simplify instructions and calculations. For example, if a pattern calls for eight 5-inch squares from a 40-inch-wide strip but your fabric only offers 38 inches of usable width, you’ll need to adjust your cuts. This might mean cutting an extra strip and, as a result, needing more fabric than the pattern specifies.

This is especially relevant for binding, borders, and strip-piecing. For instance, if a pattern says, "cut 6 strips 2½″ x WOF for binding", the total binding length depends on your actual WOF. With 40 inches of usable width, six strips yield about 240 inches of binding before joining. If your fabric is narrower, you may need to cut additional strips to ensure you have enough.

WOF in Cutting Techniques

WOF is a common reference in cutting instructions for various quilt components:

Binding: Patterns often require multiple 2½″ x WOF strips, which are joined diagonally to create a continuous binding strip. The number of strips depends on your quilt’s perimeter and the actual WOF of your fabric.
Strip piecing: Beginner-friendly patterns frequently use WOF strips sewn together lengthwise and then subcut into smaller units. Blocks like rail fence or log cabin often start with these strips.
Borders and sashing: For lap-size quilts, borders are often pieced from WOF strips joined end to end. Patterns specify how many strips to cut and join to achieve the required length for each side.

WOF and Pre-Cut Fabrics

Understanding WOF also helps when working with pre-cut fabrics. A fat quarter, for example, is created by cutting a half-yard of fabric (18 inches along the length) and then cutting it in half across the WOF. This results in an 18″ × 21″ rectangle, assuming the original fabric had a 42–44 inch WOF. Similarly, jelly roll strips are usually 2½″ x WOF, so slight variations in WOF can affect the strip’s total length.

When purchasing fabric off the bolt, yardage is measured along the length (parallel to the selvage), but the width of the piece is always the WOF. Knowing this helps you plan your cuts and visualize how much fabric you’re actually getting.

Grain Direction and WOF

In quilting cotton, the lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage, while the crosswise grain runs across the WOF. Cutting along the crosswise grain provides slight stretch, making it ideal for patchwork, binding, and borders. The lengthwise grain, on the other hand, has minimal stretch, so some quilters prefer it for long outer borders to avoid wavy edges. However, for most beginner projects, cutting along the WOF is more efficient and works just fine.

Common WOF Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

One common mistake is assuming all fabrics have the same WOF. Some collections have narrower usable widths due to wide printed selvages, while specialty fabrics like quilt backing can be 60, 90, or even 108 inches wide. Always measure the usable WOF before cutting, especially if the pattern has tight fabric requirements.

Another frequent issue arises when selvages aren’t aligned properly. Misaligned selvages can lead to skewed folds, resulting in strips that are slightly diagonal. This can throw off measurements and cause blocks to be uneven. Take the time to smooth and align your fabric before making the first cut to avoid these problems.

How Mrs. Quilty Teaches WOF

Mrs. Quilty incorporates WOF into her lessons from the very first project. For example, a beginner quilt might start with instructions to "cut 8 strips 2½″ x WOF", accompanied by a demonstration of how to fold and align the fabric on a cutting mat. By measuring and cutting WOF strips, students quickly see how it impacts fabric usage and planning.

In binding lessons, you’ll join WOF strips diagonally and measure the total binding length. This hands-on approach makes WOF feel less like jargon and more like a practical, repeatable skill you’ll use in every project.

Quick Tips for Working With WOF

Always measure the usable WOF after trimming selvages. Don’t assume it’s exactly 44 inches; use 40–42 inches for calculations to account for selvage removal and shrinkage.
When a pattern says "x″ x WOF", cut strips with the short measurement along the cut edge and the long measurement running selvage to selvage.
For borders and binding, calculate how many WOF strips you need by dividing your quilt’s perimeter (in inches) by 40 and rounding up.
Smooth and press your fabric so the selvages lie flat and parallel before cutting to avoid uneven or bowed strips.
Pay attention to directional prints to ensure the motif aligns as intended.

4. Fat Quarter

A fat quarter is a fabric piece measuring about 18 inches × 21 inches (after trimming selvages, it’s closer to 18 inches × 20–21 inches). Unlike a standard quarter-yard cut, which is a long, narrow strip of about 9 inches × 42–44 inches, the squarish shape of a fat quarter offers more cutting possibilities.

This cut comes from halving an 18-inch fabric piece across its full width. With quilting cotton typically having a width of fabric (WOF) of 42–44 inches, splitting that half-yard results in two fat quarters, each roughly 18 inches × 21–22 inches. This unique size opens up creative opportunities for quilt designs.

Why Fat Quarters Stand Out

The rectangular shape of a fat quarter makes it incredibly versatile. It allows you to cut larger squares, rectangles, and other shapes that wouldn’t fit into a narrow 9-inch strip. For instance, you can cut twelve 5-inch squares or two 10-inch squares from a single fat quarter, with some fabric left for smaller pieces. A 10-inch square simply isn’t possible from the skinny strip of a standard quarter-yard.

Fat quarters are perfect for scrappy quilts, samplers, and Block of the Month (BOM) projects where variety is key but full yards of fabric aren’t necessary. Instead of buying a yard of 20 different fabrics (which can be costly and leave you with excess fabric), purchasing 20 fat quarters gives you just enough of each print to add variety and visual interest to your quilt.

Fat Quarters in U.S. Quilt Shops

In the U.S., quilt shops often sell fat quarters individually, typically priced between $2.75 and $4.00, depending on the brand and collection. Many shops also offer curated bundles of 10–20 fat quarters, grouped by designer collection or color palette. These bundles usually range from $35 to $80, making them an easy way to build a cohesive fabric set without spending hours choosing prints.

Mrs. Quilty features a variety of fat quarter options, including the Mystery Fat Quarter Bundle for $39.99 and themed bundles like Endless Motion, French Play, Sweet Celebration, Warm Reflections, and Floral Fade for $32.97 each. There’s also the Limited Edition Spring Fabric Collection with 16 fat quarters for $39.97. Mrs. Quilty’s monthly subscription box includes 12 coordinated fat quarters made from 100% cotton, along with patterns and instructions tailored to these fabrics.

Cutting From a Fat Quarter

Before cutting into a fat quarter, it’s important to square it up by trimming selvages and uneven edges. Depending on your project, you can then cut it into strips, squares, or rectangles. For example, if you need 2.5-inch strips, you can get seven strips along the 18-inch side or eight strips along the 21-inch side.

Many quilt patterns today are designed to be "fat quarter friendly." These patterns specify how many fat quarters you’ll need instead of listing yardage. For example, a pattern might call for "12 fat quarters", meaning you’ll need twelve 18-inch × 21-inch pieces. This simplifies planning and shopping, especially for beginners who may find yardage calculations intimidating.

Fat Quarters vs. Other Precuts

Fat quarters offer more flexibility compared to other precut options. A single fat quarter can be divided into charm-pack-sized squares, jelly-roll-width strips, or mini layer-cake pieces. This adaptability makes fat quarters an essential building block for a variety of quilting projects.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

Beginners often assume all fat quarters are exactly the same size, but slight variations can occur depending on the shop or the fabric’s width. Always measure and trim before cutting. Another common mistake is mixing washed and unwashed fat quarters in the same project - be consistent by either prewashing all your fat quarters or using them straight from the shop.

Cutting without a plan can also lead to wasted fabric. To avoid this, follow a cutting diagram tailored to your pattern. This ensures you get the most out of each fat quarter with minimal waste.

How Mrs. Quilty Incorporates Fat Quarters

Mrs. Quilty makes working with fat quarters approachable and practical. Her beginner quilt projects often specify the exact number of fat quarters needed, with clear cutting instructions. Whether through videos or printed guides, she demonstrates how to position a fat quarter on a cutting mat, use rulers along the 18-inch and 21-inch sides, and cut common pieces like 5-inch squares or 2.5-inch strips.

Many of her patterns and BOM blocks are designed with fat quarters in mind, showing how this cut fits seamlessly into real projects. Leftover strips and squares can be repurposed for scrappy bindings, half-square triangles (HSTs), and smaller blocks, helping you reduce waste and build a useful scrap stash.

Quick Tips for Using Fat Quarters

Here are a few tips to keep in mind when working with fat quarters:

Measure the usable dimensions after trimming off selvages.
Plan your cuts carefully along the straight grain to avoid waste.
Store fat quarters folded by collection or color for easy access.
Buy an extra fat quarter or two for miscuts or additional layout options.
While fat quarters cost more per yard, they let you access a wider variety of prints at a lower upfront cost - perfect for scrappy and sampler quilts.

5. Quarter Inch Seam Allowance

A precise quarter-inch seam is the cornerstone of creating accurate and polished quilts. This seam allowance, measuring exactly 1/4 inch between the raw edge of the fabric and your stitching line, is the standard for most quilt patterns in the United States. It’s a critical skill to master before cutting fabric or sewing your first seam.

Unlike garment sewing, which typically uses a 5/8 inch seam allowance to allow for adjustments, quilting relies on this narrower measurement. Quilt patterns are designed with the 1/4 inch seam in mind, ensuring every block, strip, and unit fits together perfectly. When your seam allowance is consistent, your blocks will align neatly, points will stay sharp, and the overall quilt will come together seamlessly.

Why Precision Matters

Even the slightest deviation in your seam allowance can throw off an entire quilt. For example, being off by just 1/16 inch per seam can add up significantly across a block with multiple seams, leaving it over 1/2 inch larger or smaller than intended. These small errors can make it difficult to join blocks without issues like puckering, wavy rows, or mismatched corners.

Scant vs. Full Quarter Inch

Many quilters recommend using a scant quarter-inch seam, which is just slightly narrower than 1/4 inch. This accounts for the thickness of the fabric and the fold created when pressing seams to one side. The tiny bit of fabric taken up by the fold can affect the final size of your pieces, and a scant seam helps ensure accuracy.

A full quarter-inch seam measures exactly 1/4 inch from the stitching line to the raw edge. While this works well for simpler patchwork with fewer seams, a scant seam is often better for complex blocks like half-square triangles (HSTs) or designs with multiple seams. The key is consistency - whether you choose a scant or full quarter-inch seam, stick with it for the entire project to maintain uniformity.

Setting Up Your Machine

Most sewing machines don’t automatically sew a perfect 1/4 inch seam, so setting up a guide is essential. A quarter-inch presser foot can be a game-changer, especially for beginners. This tool has a guide edge to keep your fabric aligned at exactly 1/4 inch from the needle.

Before starting a project, test your seam allowance by sewing together a few fabric strips. For instance, sew three 2-inch strips together using your 1/4 inch seam. After pressing the seams, the finished piece should measure 5.5 inches across (2 + 2 + 2 = 6 inches, minus two 1/4 inch seams). If the measurement is off, adjust your setup until it’s accurate.

Common Mistakes and Fixes

Beginners often focus on the needle instead of the edge guide, which can lead to uneven seams. Instead, keep your eyes on the guide to ensure the fabric edge stays aligned as you sew. Also, avoid pushing or pulling the fabric - let the machine’s feed dogs do the work.

Pressing mistakes can also impact seam accuracy. Dragging a hot iron across seams can stretch or distort the fabric. Instead, lift the iron and press it down gently. Mixing prewashed and unwashed fabrics can also cause inconsistencies, as cotton tends to shrink when washed. To avoid this, either prewash all fabrics or use them straight from the store for the entire project.

How Pressing Affects Seams

Pressing seams to one side can create bulk, slightly reducing the finished width of your pieces. A scant seam can help compensate for this. Alternatively, pressing seams open distributes the bulk more evenly and keeps patchwork flatter, though it does expose the stitches slightly. If your blocks consistently come out smaller or your points feel tight, try pressing seams open or using a scant seam where needed.

Tools for Accuracy

A quarter-inch presser foot and a quilting ruler with clear 1/4 inch markings are invaluable for maintaining precision. A seam gauge can also help check your seam allowance. Before diving into a project, test your setup by sewing a few fabric strips and measuring the results to ensure accuracy.

Practice Makes Perfect

Mastering the quarter-inch seam takes practice, and Mrs. Quilty’s hands-on approach makes it easier to learn. She suggests starting each project with a simple warm-up exercise, like sewing and measuring a pair of squares. This helps build muscle memory and ensures your seams are consistent from the get-go.

Her beginner-friendly projects often include practice strip sets, where you sew multiple fabric strips together and measure the combined width. For more complex designs like HSTs or four-patch blocks, Mrs. Quilty includes helpful reminders to check your seam allowance. Short tips like "test your 1/4 inch seam here" or sidebars with measurement checks keep you on track.

In her video tutorials, Mrs. Quilty demonstrates techniques like aligning fabric along the seam guide, maintaining an even sewing speed, and pressing seams correctly. As one beginner, Diane M., shared:

Being a beginner, Mrs. Quilty has been a game-changer. The easy projects and clear instructions helped me learn so fast!

Another customer, Brenda M., added:

It's like having a personal quilting coach - right on screen!

Exceptions to the Rule

While the 1/4 inch seam is standard in quilting, there are exceptions. Foundation paper-piecing patterns, for instance, may specify different seam allowances, which must be followed as printed. Similarly, some bag or home-decor projects require larger seam allowances - like 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch - for added strength. When a pattern deviates from the standard, it will typically include clear instructions to prevent confusion.

Building Good Habits

Experienced quilters often start new projects by sewing a quick test block to confirm their machine settings. This ensures that every seam is consistent throughout the quilt, from the first block to the last. By mastering the quarter-inch seam, you’ll set yourself up for success with projects ranging from beginner-friendly patchwork to intricate designs.

6. Selvage

Previously described as the tightly woven, factory-finished edge of fabric, the selvage plays a critical role in quilting. It runs along the long sides of the fabric, aligned with the stable lengthwise grain. Unlike cut edges that tend to fray, the selvage resists unraveling. On most quilting cottons, which typically measure 42–45 inches wide from selvage to selvage, you'll often notice printed details such as the designer's name, the fabric collection, color registration dots, and sometimes even tiny pinholes.

This section expands on fabric structure and explains how to handle selvages for precise cutting and creative reuse. Proper selvage management not only ensures accurate cuts but also contributes to the overall quality of your finished quilt.

Why the Selvage Matters for Quilt Accuracy

The selvage runs along the lengthwise grain, which is the most stable and least stretchy part of the fabric. This stability makes it easier to align your ruler and cutting mat, reducing the chances of distortion when cutting strips or blocks. It also helps you determine the usable width of the fabric - usually about 40–42 inches after trimming - so you can calculate how many pieces you can cut with accuracy.

Most quilters choose to remove the selvage before cutting patchwork pieces. The denser weave of the selvage can lead to puckered seams or areas that don’t press as smoothly as the rest of the fabric. If left in a quilt block or border, the selvage might cause rippling or unevenness, which can affect the overall shape and flatness of your quilt. Additionally, printed markings or plain margins on the selvage might show through on the front of your quilt if they end up in a visible seam.

How to Handle Selvages When Cutting

To prepare your fabric for cutting, fold it in half so the selvage edges align, ensuring the fabric lies flat without any ripples. Use the folded selvage edge to check that the fabric is on-grain before making your first straight cut. Trim off about 1/4–1/2 inch of the selvage to remove the denser edge. Once trimmed, the remaining fabric is ready for cutting into strips, blocks, or shapes.

Some beginners worry about wasting fabric when trimming the selvage, but you’re only removing the tightly woven edge, not a significant portion. A small cut of 1/4–1/2 inch is usually enough to eliminate the denser area while preserving the maximum amount of usable fabric.

Understanding Grain Direction

The selvage aligns with the lengthwise grain, the most stable direction in the fabric. The crosswise grain, running perpendicular to the selvage, has slightly more stretch, while the bias - at a 45-degree angle - offers the most flexibility. For borders and sashing that need to remain straight, use cuts aligned with the lengthwise grain. For other pieces, the crosswise grain or bias can be useful when some stretch is needed.

Creative Uses for Selvage Scraps

Selvages aren’t just for cutting precision - they can also inspire creativity. Many quilters save selvage strips for unique projects. The printed text and color dots have gained popularity, leading to a trend called "selvage quilting", where entire quilt tops or borders are crafted from trimmed selvages. These strips can also be used to make zipper pouches, mug rugs, needle books, or pincushions. Some quilters even sew selvages onto a foundation fabric to create decorative pillow tops.

To stay organized, keep a jar or bin near your cutting area for collecting selvage scraps. Over time, you’ll accumulate enough material for small projects or even larger creative endeavors. If you choose to sew with selvages, press seams open to reduce bulk and ensure your projects lay flat.

Practical Tips and Exceptions

When a pattern advises you to "trim off selvage", it’s referring to the tightly woven printed edge. Be sure to identify the selvage before cutting to ensure accurate measurements and layouts. After trimming, the usable width of the fabric will generally be about 40–42 inches, which is important for precise fabric calculations. Some quilters store their fabric with the selvage visible, making it easier to orient the grain when starting a new project. While selvages are usually trimmed for pieced blocks, they can be retained for stabilizing large yardage or hidden seams where their strength is beneficial and won’t be visible.

How Mrs. Quilty Makes It Simple

Mrs. Quilty’s methods make selvage management straightforward. Her projects often include instructions like, “Fold your fabric selvage to selvage, straighten the edge, then trim off the selvage before cutting your strips.” Her video tutorials demonstrate how to align fabric along the selvage edge and make clean, accurate cuts. By adopting these practices early, you’ll avoid cutting mistakes and help your quilts maintain their shape and smoothness through every stage - piecing, quilting, and even washing.

7. Quilt Sandwich

A quilt sandwich is the essential three-layer structure that turns your pieced quilt top into a finished quilt. It’s made up of three parts: the quilt top (the decorative front), batting (the insulating middle layer), and backing fabric (the reverse side). These layers are stacked together and stitched through during quilting to hold them securely in place. Think of it as a literal sandwich, with each layer playing a vital role.

This step is where piecing transitions into quilting. Piecing is the process of sewing fabric pieces together to create the quilt top, while quilting involves stitching through all three layers of the sandwich. It’s a critical distinction - your quilt isn’t complete after finishing the top; you still need to assemble and quilt the sandwich to create a functional, long-lasting piece.

Building Your Quilt Sandwich

Layering your quilt sandwich correctly is crucial. Start by laying the backing fabric right side down on a flat surface, smoothing it out completely. Center the batting on top, followed by the quilt top with its right side facing up. To ensure everything stays in place during quilting, allow the backing and batting to extend at least 4 inches beyond the quilt top on all sides. This extra margin accommodates shifting and trimming later, and it’s especially important if you’re using a professional quilter or longarm machine service.

Avoiding Common Mistakes

A well-assembled quilt sandwich is key to a frustration-free quilting experience. If the layers aren’t smooth or secured properly, you’ll likely encounter uneven stitching or shifting, which can distort your quilt and create unsightly bumps. Take the time to smooth each layer thoroughly and secure the sandwich with a basting method before you begin quilting.

Basting temporarily holds the layers together, preventing movement as you work. You can choose from several techniques:

Safety pins: Place pins every 4–6 inches for a secure hold.
Hand basting: Use long, temporary stitches for a traditional approach.
Spray adhesive: A quick option that creates a smooth surface for machine quilting.

For beginners, safety pin basting is often the easiest and most reliable method, especially for smaller projects.

Picking the Right Batting

The batting you choose impacts your quilt’s warmth, weight, and overall feel. For beginners, low-loft cotton or cotton-polyester blends are great options. Cotton batting is breathable and soft, giving your quilt a classic look. It may shrink slightly after washing, creating a charming crinkled effect. Cotton-polyester blends, on the other hand, offer added stability and softness.

Loft refers to the thickness of the batting. Low-loft batting (around 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick) creates a flatter quilt that’s easier to machine quilt, while higher loft batting makes a puffier, warmer quilt. However, thicker batting can be more challenging to stitch through, especially on a domestic sewing machine. Consider the quilt’s purpose - a cozy throw might benefit from higher loft, while a bed quilt that needs to drape nicely works better with low-loft batting.

Quilt-As-You-Go: A Beginner-Friendly Option

If managing a large quilt sandwich feels intimidating, the Quilt-As-You-Go (QAYG) method offers a simpler alternative. With QAYG, you create smaller quilt sandwiches for each block or section, quilting them individually before joining them into the final quilt. This approach is much easier to handle on a domestic sewing machine and allows you to work on one block at a time.

Mrs. Quilty often incorporates QAYG techniques into her projects. This method not only reduces physical strain but also makes the process more portable. Plus, you can experiment with different quilting designs on each block. However, keep in mind that you’ll have more seams on the back where the blocks join, so careful planning is essential to maintain a cohesive look.

Helpful Tips for Quilting Success

Before you begin quilting, mark the top edge or a reference corner of your quilt sandwich. This simple step helps you keep directional prints or planned quilting designs properly oriented. It’s easy to lose track of direction while quilting, and discovering a section is upside down can be frustrating.

For larger quilts, roll the sides inward to make the sandwich easier to maneuver under your sewing machine. Use quilt clips or even bicycle clips to secure the rolled sections. If you’re hand quilting, a quilting hoop or frame can hold a manageable section taut while supporting the rest of the sandwich.

How Mrs. Quilty Makes It Easier

Mrs. Quilty’s step-by-step guides take the guesswork out of building your quilt sandwich. With precise measurements for backing and batting based on your quilt top size, her video tutorials walk you through smoothing each layer, placing basting pins, and ensuring proper alignment. Following her methods can help you avoid common mistakes like puckered seams or shifting layers, leaving you with a quilt that lays flat and looks polished.

8. Free-Motion Quilting (FMQ)

Free-motion quilting (FMQ) is a machine quilting technique that lets you move your quilt freely under the needle, creating curves, loops, and unique designs instead of sticking to straight lines. Unlike standard machine quilting, where the feed dogs (the teeth under the presser foot) guide the fabric, FMQ puts you in charge. By lowering or covering the feed dogs and using a special free-motion or darning foot, you can move the quilt in any direction - forward, backward, or sideways. Think of it as drawing with thread.

This method is perfect for adding texture and personality to your quilt while securing the quilt sandwich's layers. Popular FMQ designs include meanders (also called stippling), loops, pebbles, feathers, and simple shapes like hearts or leaves. These patterns often serve as all-over textures or background fills, helping pieced blocks stand out by compressing the surrounding areas. This hands-on approach aligns beautifully with the interactive style Mrs. Quilty incorporates into her projects.

Setting Up Your Machine for FMQ

Before diving into FMQ, you’ll need to prepare both your sewing machine and your quilt sandwich. Start by assembling and basting your quilt sandwich to ensure the layers stay flat and secure. Use safety pins spaced about 4–6 inches apart or spray basting for a smooth surface. Proper basting is crucial because the quilt will move in multiple directions, and poorly secured layers can cause puckering.

Next, attach a free-motion or darning foot to your machine and lower or cover the feed dogs. Set your machine to a straight stitch and adjust the stitch length to 0 or manual mode, as your hand movements will now control the stitch length. Use a fresh quilting or universal needle (size 80/12 or 90/14) and high-quality thread to minimize thread breaks.

Before working on your actual project, practice on a small quilt sandwich made from scrap fabric and batting. This is your time to adjust tension and get comfortable coordinating your hand and machine speed for even stitches. Once you're ready, roll or fold your quilt to fit through your machine's throat space, and support the bulk on a table to the left and behind the machine.

Starting with Simple Designs

If you’re new to FMQ, it’s best to start with smaller quilts, like lap-size projects, as larger quilts can be more challenging to maneuver under a domestic machine. Begin with simple, all-over designs like large meanders or loops before attempting intricate fillers or complex motifs like feathers. A good practice routine is working on small 12-inch quilt sandwiches for 10–15 minutes a few times a week.

Start with basic shapes such as lines, curves, and loops. You can even try writing your name in thread or practicing cursive "e" and "l" shapes to develop smooth curves and coordination. Once you feel confident, apply these designs to a small project like a potholder or placemat. This hands-on practice not only builds muscle memory but also helps you maintain consistent stitch lengths, even though the machine isn’t controlling them. These early efforts will prepare you to incorporate FMQ into larger quilts.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

FMQ can be tricky at first, and beginners often encounter a few common issues. Irregular stitches on the back usually point to tension problems or uneven speed. Puckers are often caused by poor basting. To fix these, re-baste any loose areas, adjust the top tension in small increments, and practice until you coordinate your hand and machine speeds.

The secret to even stitches is maintaining a steady, moderate machine speed while moving your hands consistently. Pausing too long in one spot can cause thread build-up, while moving too quickly results in uneven, wandering lines. Many quilting educators encourage embracing imperfections in FMQ - minor wobbles or uneven stitches often disappear once the quilt is washed and crinkled.

Physical Comfort and Safety

FMQ can be physically demanding, especially with larger quilts, so staying comfortable is essential. Take breaks often and consider using quilting gloves or silicone tips to reduce hand fatigue. Adjust your chair to a comfortable height and support the quilt on a nearby table to minimize strain.

Some quilters also use silicone mats on the machine bed to reduce friction, making it easier to glide the quilt smoothly.

How FMQ Changes Your Quilt

FMQ often adds dense stitching that enhances texture and visual appeal, especially when used as background fill around pieced blocks. Small, intricate fills like micro-quilting or stippling can make the main quilt motifs pop by compressing the surrounding areas. However, keep in mind that denser quilting can make the quilt stiffer and less drapable. Choosing the right batting and maintaining consistent quilting density can help ensure the quilt feels balanced and soft.

Learning FMQ Through Mrs. Quilty Projects

FMQ adds a personal touch and extra dimension to your quilts, and Mrs. Quilty incorporates this technique into her projects in a way that’s approachable and fun. For instance, in a Block of the Month program, you might practice one new motif each month - large meanders in month one, loops in month two, and simple flowers in month three. This step-by-step approach lets you build a library of designs on manageable pieces, making the learning process feel natural and achievable. By the time you finish your BOM quilt, you’ll have a variety of FMQ techniques under your belt without feeling overwhelmed.

9. Binding

Once your quilt sandwich is assembled, the final touch is applying the binding. Binding is a fabric strip that wraps around the quilt's outer edge, neatly covering and protecting the raw edges of the quilt top, batting, and backing. It not only prevents wear but also gives your quilt a polished, finished appearance.

Because binding is visible from all sides - front, back, and edges - your fabric and color choice can significantly influence the quilt's overall look. A contrasting binding creates a bold frame, drawing attention to the edges, while a binding that blends with the border fabric provides a softer, uninterrupted finish that keeps the focus on your patchwork. This makes selecting your binding a creative decision that adds a personal touch to your quilting project.

Straight-Grain vs. Bias Binding

The type of binding you choose depends on your quilt's design. For quilts with straight edges, straight-grain binding is the go-to choice. It’s cut along the width of fabric (WOF) or lengthwise grain, offering stability with minimal stretch. This method is efficient, easy to cut, and perfect for square or rectangular quilts - ideal for beginners.

If your quilt features scalloped, wavy, or curved edges, bias binding is the better option. Cut at a 45-degree angle to the fabric grain, it provides the stretch needed to smoothly navigate curves without puckering. While bias binding requires more fabric and careful cutting, it’s essential for projects with intricate edges. Beginners often start with straight-grain binding and explore bias binding as they gain confidence.

Calculating Your Binding Fabric

To determine how much fabric you’ll need for binding, start by measuring the quilt’s perimeter - add up the lengths of all four sides. Then, include an extra 10–15 inches for joining the ends and creating neat mitered corners. For example, a 60-inch by 72-inch throw quilt has a perimeter of 264 inches; adding 12 inches gives you a total of 276 inches. With 40 usable inches per 2½-inch WOF strip, you’d need seven strips or about ½ yard of fabric.

Most quilters in the U.S. cut their binding strips 2½ inches wide for double-fold binding, which works well with a ¼-inch seam allowance and standard cotton batting. Some prefer slightly narrower 2¼-inch strips for a slimmer binding once they’re comfortable with precise seam allowances.

Attaching Binding to Your Quilt

Before attaching the binding, make sure your quilt is trimmed and squared up after quilting. Uneven edges can lead to wavy, puckered binding that’s difficult to fix. Use a large square ruler to check that your corners are true 90-degree angles and that all sides are straight.

To prepare your binding strips, sew them together end-to-end with diagonal seams to reduce bulk, then press the long strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Begin attaching the binding on one side of the quilt, aligning the raw edges of the binding with the quilt top. Sew it to the front using a ¼-inch seam allowance, stopping ¼ inch before each corner. Fold the binding up at a 45-degree angle, then back down along the next side to create a neat mitered corner. Continue this process around the quilt.

When you reach the starting point, join the two binding ends with a diagonal seam or your preferred method. Once the binding is attached to the front, wrap it around to the back so the folded edge covers the stitching line. Secure it by hand with a blind stitch or ladder stitch for an almost invisible finish, or machine-stitch it from the front for a quicker, more durable result.

Hand vs. Machine Finishing

Finishing your binding by hand gives your quilt a classic, polished look, perfect for gifts, bed quilts, or show pieces. Hand-stitching creates nearly invisible stitches on the back, but it can take several evenings to complete a throw-size quilt. This method is ideal for projects where you want to add extra care or enjoy the process of slow sewing.

If time is a priority, machine-finishing is a faster alternative. It’s especially practical for baby quilts, picnic blankets, or charity quilts that will be washed frequently. While machine-binding may leave visible stitching on one side, careful stitch-in-the-ditch or edge-stitching can still achieve a tidy finish. Learning both techniques allows you to choose the best approach for each quilt’s purpose.

Common Binding Mistakes and Fixes

Beginners often encounter a few common binding challenges. Forgetting to stop ¼ inch from the corner can result in bulky, pleated corners instead of crisp mitered ones. Twisting the binding when joining the ends can create lumps, and using too narrow a seam allowance may cause the binding to roll or expose stitching on the back.

To avoid these issues, stick to a consistent ¼-inch seam allowance and check periodically with a seam gauge to ensure the binding covers the stitching line evenly on the back. Press binding strips before and after joining seams to minimize bulk and twisting. If your binding looks wavy after sewing, lightly steam-press and block the quilt flat on a large surface, letting it cool completely before moving it. This often smooths out minor ripples.

Adding Character With Binding Choices

Binding offers a chance to infuse personality into your quilt. For beginners, a medium-to-dark solid or small print is a safe choice, as it hides tiny stitching imperfections better than lighter fabrics. Before cutting all your binding, test a few fabric strips along the quilt edge to see which option frames your quilt best.

Scrappy binding, made from leftover strips, is a budget-friendly way to add charm, especially to scrap quilts or kids' quilts. It’s also forgiving for beginners since variations in fabric blend seamlessly. Striped or directional prints can create a striking candy-stripe effect when aligned carefully. Testing a small sample around a corner can help you decide before committing to the full binding.

Practice With Mrs. Quilty Projects

Mrs. Quilty’s projects provide excellent opportunities to practice binding techniques. Start small with a mug rug or mini wall quilt to quickly go through the entire process - from trimming and attaching to finishing binding. These manageable projects let you build confidence without the pressure of a large quilt. As you gain experience, you might machine-bind a baby quilt for durability or hand-bind a lap quilt for a relaxing evening activity. Mastering binding not only completes your quilt but also sets the stage for more intricate techniques in future projects.

10. UFO (Unfinished Object)

In the quilting world, a UFO refers to an Unfinished Object - any project that's been set aside before completion. This could mean pieced blocks waiting to be sewn into a quilt top, a completed top that still needs quilting, or even a quilted piece that just needs binding. The term is used with a mix of humor and camaraderie among quilters, acknowledging that life, shifting interests, or new ideas often interrupt even the best-laid plans.

UFOs are more common than you might think. Surveys reveal that most quilters have several unfinished projects at any given time. Rather than seeing this as a failure, many view it as a natural part of the creative process. Managing these UFOs is simply another step in the quilting journey.

Why UFOs Happen

Projects often stall for many reasons, and understanding these can help you approach your UFOs with curiosity instead of guilt. Beginners might pause a project after struggling with a new skill, such as free-motion quilting or achieving precise points. Sometimes, running out of materials - whether fabric, thread, or batting - can bring progress to a halt, especially if initial estimates were off. Other times, mis-cut pieces, a lack of interest in the color palette, or the overwhelming size of a project can lead to it being shelved.

Life events also play a big role. Moving, starting a new job, or taking on caregiving responsibilities can push quilting aside. For example, a springtime baby quilt might miss its deadline and sit unfinished for months. Recognizing these patterns can help you view UFOs not as failures, but as opportunities to reassess your priorities and decide which projects are worth finishing.

Sorting and Auditing Your UFOs

To tackle your UFOs, start by gathering them all in one place and sorting them into categories based on their current stage. Use labeled bins for stages like "cut but not pieced", "blocks made", "top finished - needs quilting", or "needs binding." Clear plastic totes are especially handy for storing 12½-inch blocks, as they let you see the contents without digging through opaque bags.

For each UFO, create a simple checklist noting the pattern name, finished size, fabrics used, current stage, and what’s missing. You might find that some projects only need a few finishing touches, while others require significant rework, like re-cutting pieces or starting over. This process helps you identify which projects are closest to completion and which might require more effort or resources than you’re ready to commit.

Deciding What to Finish, Modify, or Release

Not every UFO needs to be finished. Ask yourself questions like, "Do I still like this design?" or "Is it worth the extra time and cost?" If a project no longer fits your style but the blocks are well-made, consider donating them to charity groups that finish quilts for hospitals, shelters, or veterans. Projects requiring significant extra fabric or effort can be simplified - downsizing a bed quilt into a lap quilt or table topper, for instance.

For example, sampler blocks from a class project could be turned into a smaller wall quilt or placemats. A baby quilt top that stalled at the quilting stage could be finished quickly with simple diagonal quilting and low-loft cotton batting. Seasonal items, like a holiday table runner, can be completed and stored for next year. Orphan blocks can also find new life as donation quilts, potholders, or scrappy quilt backings, giving them a practical purpose.

Preventing Future UFOs

To avoid accumulating more UFOs, experienced quilters often recommend starting with smaller projects - like baby quilts, table runners, or throw-size tops under 60 inches square. Completing these quicker projects helps build confidence and provides a better sense of how long each stage takes. Some quilters adopt rules, such as finishing one UFO before starting a new project or limiting the number of UFOs they allow themselves to have. Once the limit is reached, something must be finished, gifted, or dismantled.

Planning ahead can also reduce UFOs. Purchase fabric with a specific pattern and size in mind, and jot down those details in a notebook or digital file. Before starting a new project, ask yourself: "Do I have the time and energy to finish this?" Being honest about your schedule and skill level can prevent projects from stalling. Just as Mrs. Quilty's Block of the Month (BOM) program encourages steady progress, setting boundaries for UFOs keeps your creativity flowing.

UFO Challenges and Finish-Alongs

Joining UFO challenges or finish-alongs through social media or quilt guilds can provide motivation and support. These events encourage you to set realistic goals, like finishing one UFO per quarter, and celebrate your progress alongside others. Tackling old projects becomes a shared, enjoyable experience.

Many modern quilt patterns and designers now include features to help quilters finish stalled projects, such as clear labels and easy-to-follow instructions. Mrs. Quilty’s designs, for example, come with step-by-step guides and video tutorials that make restarting a UFO less daunting. Occasionally, her Block of the Month program includes "UFO Rescue" prompts, encouraging quilters to revisit an unfinished top and use that month’s lesson to add borders, sashing, or setting blocks. Checklists for measuring a UFO top, planning backing and binding, and choosing a simple quilting design can help you apply skills like working with WOF, binding, and quilt sandwiches while actively completing a project.

Connecting UFOs to Other Quilting Terms

UFOs intersect with many quilting concepts, from cutting WOF strips to assembling the quilt sandwich. A UFO can stall at any stage, but revisiting it gives you the chance to practice techniques like measuring for borders, selecting batting, and quilting the layers together. Each step reinforces your knowledge of quilting terms and skills, transforming a forgotten project into a valuable learning experience.

The key is to approach your UFOs with kindness. They’re not failures - they’re simply projects waiting for the right moment to be revisited, repurposed, or passed along. By understanding why UFOs happen and how to manage them, you can make thoughtful decisions about which ones deserve your time and which are better suited for a new purpose.

Batting Types Comparison

Choosing the right batting can feel like navigating a maze with terms like "loft" and "scrim" popping up on packaging. But understanding the basics of cotton, polyester, wool, and blended battings can help you confidently pick the perfect middle layer for your project. Whether you're crafting a cozy winter quilt, a light summer throw, or a wall hanging to showcase your free-motion quilting, the right batting makes all the difference.

Batting impacts more than just warmth. It affects how your quilt drapes, how easy it is to quilt on a domestic machine, how much it shrinks after washing, and how well your quilting stitches stand out. For example, thin wool batting provides warmth at a fraction of the weight of cotton, thanks to wool's natural insulation. High-loft polyester may seem warm and puffy at first but can feel less breathable, especially in humid conditions. And thicker batting doesn’t always mean a warmer quilt - there’s more to it than just thickness.

Here’s a quick comparison of common batting types, including details on loft thickness, warmth, drape, best uses, and care instructions. These insights will help you choose the right batting for your quilting needs.

Batting Type	Loft Thickness	Warmth & Drape	Best Use in Mrs. Quilty Projects	Washing & Drying
Cotton	Low to medium, about 1/8"–1/4"	Breathable with moderate warmth; soft, relaxed drape; crinkles after washing for a vintage look	Beginner bed quilts, Block of the Month samplers, kids' quilts, lap throws, projects where quilting stitches stand out	Machine wash cool to warm (80–90°F), gentle cycle; tumble dry low. Expect 3–5% shrinkage for that cozy crinkle.
Polyester	Medium to high, about 1/4"–1/2" or higher	Warm but less breathable; drape varies from soft to stiff at higher lofts; minimal shrinkage	Quilts with bold quilting designs, picnic quilts, wall hangings, tied quilts, budget-friendly charity projects	Machine wash warm (90–105°F); tumble dry low. Minimal shrinkage. Avoid high heat, which can distort cheaper options.
Wool	Medium, about 1/4"–3/8" with good bounce	Warm, lightweight, and enhances quilting stitches; excellent drape; smooth surface aids quilting	Winter throws, heirloom quilts, show quilts needing stitch definition, lightweight but warm quilts	Cool water wash (70–80°F), gentle or wool cycle; air-dry flat or tumble dry low. Avoid hot water and high heat to prevent felting.
Blends (e.g., 80/20 cotton/poly)	Low to medium, about 1/8"–1/4"	Balanced warmth and drape; softer than polyester, stronger than cotton, less prone to shrinkage	Everyday bed quilts, Block of the Month projects, high-use kids' quilts, general samplers	Machine wash cool to warm (80–90°F); tumble dry low. Mild shrinkage. Follow manufacturer’s care instructions.

For Block of the Month projects and sampler quilts, low-loft cotton or 80/20 cotton/poly blends are great options. They’re easier to baste, quilt smoothly on domestic machines (especially those with smaller throat spaces), and provide the soft, classic look many quilters love. Plus, these battings are forgiving if your quilting lines aren’t perfectly even.

Polyester batting, while more challenging to compress under a home machine’s presser foot, shines in projects with open quilting designs or tied quilts. It’s also ideal for wall hangings or show quilts where you want your quilting texture to pop - its puffiness adds dimension to stitches.

Wool batting offers warmth without bulk, making it a favorite for winter throws and heirloom quilts. Its smooth surface makes free-motion quilting easier, and it rebounds beautifully around stitches, highlighting your quilting lines without adding stiffness. Just handle it carefully - cool water and gentle cycles are a must to avoid felting.

Blended battings, such as 80/20 cotton/poly, strike a balance between softness and durability. They’re a versatile choice for everyday quilts, especially those that will see frequent use and washing. Bamboo/cotton blends are also gaining popularity for their softness and breathability, often marketed as eco-friendly alternatives.

When choosing batting, also consider the recommended quilting distance listed on the package. Cotton and wool battings often require closer quilting (up to 8–10 inches apart), while some polyester options can handle wider spacing. If you’re new to quilting or tackling a large project, a batting with a wider quilting distance can make the process less intimidating and help you finish faster. Always follow the care instructions provided.

Selecting the right batting is as crucial as choosing the perfect fabric or mastering your cutting techniques. It directly impacts how easy it is to baste, quilt, and assemble your quilt sandwich. Revisiting an unfinished project (UFO) also gives you the chance to pick a batting that aligns with its current purpose, even if it differs from your original plan. Your batting choice influences every step of the process, from assembly to binding to free-motion quilting, ensuring your quilt turns out just the way you envisioned.

Conclusion

Understanding quilting terms takes the mystery out of the craft and replaces it with confidence. These terms act as your guide, helping you interpret patterns, solve challenges, and bring your creative ideas to life. For example, mastering a quarter-inch seam ensures your blocks align perfectly. Knowing terms like quilt sandwich, basting, and binding helps you layer and assemble your quilt smoothly, avoiding puckers or misalignments.

But the best way to learn isn’t by memorizing a glossary - it’s by diving into real projects. When you layer your quilt top, batting, and backing, the concept of a quilt sandwich becomes clear. Sewing your first half-square triangle (HST) or measuring fabric width of fabric (WOF) makes these terms second nature. This hands-on learning transforms abstract concepts into practical skills.

Mrs. Quilty’s guided projects make this process simple and enjoyable. Each monthly subscription box includes 12 coordinated fat quarters, a Block of the Month project, step-by-step instructions, and video tutorials that walk you through every technique. You won’t just read about HSTs - you’ll make 16 of them. You won’t wonder about binding - you’ll sew it onto your finished quilt. Every term is explained in plain language, ensuring you feel supported, not overwhelmed.

Beginners often share how Mrs. Quilty’s approach boosts their confidence. As Diane M. put it:

Being a beginner, Mrs. Quilty has been a game-changer. The easy projects and clear instructions helped me learn so fast!

Whether you start with a beginner-friendly kit, digital patterns, or the monthly subscription box at $34.97/month (offering over $120 in value), you’ll receive pre-cut fabrics, premium cotton, and detailed guides. These tools let you focus on stitching instead of struggling with unfamiliar terminology.

If you’re ready to turn these quilting terms into skills, explore Mrs. Quilty’s beginner-friendly kits and subscription box. Start your first quilt today and watch your confidence grow - one stitch at a time.

FAQs

What are some common fabric cutting mistakes beginners make in quilting, and how can they avoid them?

Cutting fabric with precision is a key skill for quilting, but beginners often encounter a few hurdles. One common issue is skipping the step of squaring up the fabric before cutting. This can result in uneven pieces that throw off your entire project. To prevent this, make sure to align the edges of your fabric properly. Using tools like a rotary cutter, ruler, and cutting mat can make a world of difference in achieving accurate cuts.

Another challenge is applying the wrong amount of pressure while cutting. Pressing too hard can lead to jagged edges, while too little pressure might result in skipped sections. The trick is to practice maintaining steady, even pressure with your rotary cutter to get clean, smooth cuts every time.

Finally, always double-check your measurements before making a cut - remember the golden rule: measure twice, cut once. These simple habits can save you time, fabric, and frustration, setting you up for better results in your quilting projects.

What should I consider when choosing the right batting for my quilt?

Choosing the right batting can make all the difference in how your quilt looks, feels, and functions. Start by looking at the fiber content. Popular choices include cotton, polyester, wool, and blends. Cotton is soft and breathable, perfect for everyday use. Polyester, on the other hand, is lightweight and holds its loft well, giving quilts a fluffier appearance. Wool adds cozy warmth, making it a great choice for colder weather.

Next, think about the loft and weight of the batting. Low-loft batting gives your quilt a flatter, more classic appearance, while high-loft batting adds extra puffiness and dimension. Don’t forget to check the batting’s shrinkage and washability - important factors if your quilt will see frequent use or washing.

Lastly, match the batting to your project type. For instance, baby quilts often benefit from hypoallergenic batting for sensitive skin, while wall hangings might need firmer batting to maintain their shape. Mrs. Quilty has a range of batting options designed to meet the needs of any project, helping you achieve the perfect finish for your quilt!

What are the advantages of joining a Block of the Month program, and how can it help you grow as a quilter?

Joining a Block of the Month (BOM) program is an excellent way to dive into quilting while learning at a comfortable pace. Each month, you'll focus on crafting a single quilt block, letting you explore new techniques step by step without feeling overwhelmed. This makes it a great fit for both beginners who are just starting out and seasoned quilters looking to try something new.

BOM programs also help you stay consistent and inspired. Tackling smaller, monthly projects keeps the process manageable, and by the end, you'll have a stunning quilt to show for your efforts. Even better, these programs often connect you with a community of like-minded quilters, giving you the chance to share ideas, stay motivated, and celebrate your progress together!

Back to blog

Fabric and Cutting Terms

Piecing and Block Terms

Half-Square Triangles (HSTs)

Quarter-Square Triangles (QSTs)

Strip Piecing

Chain Piecing

Quilt Assembly and Finishing Terms

Understanding the Three Layers

Creating the Quilt Sandwich

Quilting: Stitching the Layers Together

Binding: Finishing the Edges

Project Planning Terms

Understanding Project Status: BOM, WIP, and UFO

U.S. Quilt Size Labels

Key Techniques That Affect Planning

How Mrs. Quilty's Patterns Support Your Planning

1. BOM (Block of the Month)

BOM Program Formats and Logistics

Choosing the Right BOM for Your Skill Level

Getting Ready to Start Your BOM

Learning Through Monthly Repetition

Overcoming Common BOM Challenges

What You'll Do With Your Finished BOM Quilt

2. HST (Half Square Triangle)

Why HSTs Are Everywhere

How to Make HSTs: The Two-at-a-Time Method

Managing Bias Edges

Trimming for Precision

Avoiding Common Mistakes

HSTs in Mrs. Quilty’s Projects

Practice Projects to Build Confidence

3. WOF (Width of Fabric)

How to Measure WOF

Why WOF Matters in Patterns

WOF in Cutting Techniques

WOF and Pre-Cut Fabrics

Grain Direction and WOF

Common WOF Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

How Mrs. Quilty Teaches WOF

Quick Tips for Working With WOF

4. Fat Quarter

Why Fat Quarters Stand Out

Fat Quarters in U.S. Quilt Shops

Cutting From a Fat Quarter

Fat Quarters vs. Other Precuts

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

How Mrs. Quilty Incorporates Fat Quarters

Quick Tips for Using Fat Quarters

sbb-itb-907b860

5. Quarter Inch Seam Allowance

Why Precision Matters

Scant vs. Full Quarter Inch

Setting Up Your Machine

Common Mistakes and Fixes

How Pressing Affects Seams

Tools for Accuracy

Practice Makes Perfect

Exceptions to the Rule

Building Good Habits

6. Selvage

Why the Selvage Matters for Quilt Accuracy

How to Handle Selvages When Cutting

Understanding Grain Direction

Creative Uses for Selvage Scraps

Practical Tips and Exceptions

How Mrs. Quilty Makes It Simple

7. Quilt Sandwich

Building Your Quilt Sandwich

Avoiding Common Mistakes

Picking the Right Batting

Quilt-As-You-Go: A Beginner-Friendly Option

Helpful Tips for Quilting Success

How Mrs. Quilty Makes It Easier

8. Free-Motion Quilting (FMQ)

Setting Up Your Machine for FMQ

Starting with Simple Designs

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

Physical Comfort and Safety

How FMQ Changes Your Quilt

Learning FMQ Through Mrs. Quilty Projects